Scarlet Bitter in Japan

The first time I saw a bottle of Scarlet was during my trip to Japan. The bartender placed the bottle on the bartop in front of me, about to prepare a drink for my order of a bitter-digestive style cocktail. The captivating label caught my eye, 

 “it appears like a bottle of bitter I have never tried before -  I must taste what’s inside!” 

I thought to myself and asked the bartender for a small taste of this new intriguing product. 

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I took a small sip and what struck me immediately was how vibrant and well layered the botanicals felt on the palate. Right away I felt a pleasant bitterness of wormwood and angelica root, followed by a hint of cinnamon, then came more delicate notes of flowers and fresh herbs.  My first thought was “this liquid is giving me vibes of older vintage bottlings of Italian bitter I tried before”. 

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What stood out for me was its remarkable balance, it was neither extremely bitter nor excessively sweet. It had a nice and rounded mouthfeel, which I would normally have associated with a high sugar-level, but that was definitely not the case here.

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Sparking up the conversation with the bartender further, I realized there are several other Scarlet bottlings to be discovered, each harnessing a different world of flavors. Quite a comprehensive range of products in fact, different styles of liquors, from more citrus-based, through herbal and green or more bitter, barks and roots forward. That evening, I left the bar eager to taste other versions of Scarlet and perhaps bring some home as it is still not distributed in Italy. 

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Bartending in Italy I get to taste plenty of diverse aperitivi, bitter and amari rich in history, so when I tasted Scarlet Bitter, I could sense the producer has paid a true homage to the Italian tradition, then blended his own style into it. The result - a magnificent bitter, which can be enjoyed on its own, with a splash of soda or in cocktails where it would lend a lot of depth.

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From other conversations I had with people in the Japanese bar community, I discovered a real interest in bitter & amaro, so it will be interesting to follow the development of Scarlet and the category in Japan as a whole. Given the Japanese exceptional craftsmanship and the uncompromising attention to detail, I foresee a captivating future for Japanese amaro producers and its fans.

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We had the chance to interview Tatsuya Motonaga, the creator behind this fascinating product.

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The Man Behind "Scarlet" Tatsuya Motonaga - Founder of Iseya Distillery

From Bartender to Distiller: How It All Started

Born and raised in Osaka, Tatsuya Motonaga began his journey in the industry as a bartender. Working at bars in Tokyo, Taipei, and Beijing, he gained firsthand insight into the lasting popularity of herbal liqueurs, especially amari.

"I've always loved amaro" he says. "During my time behind the bar, I saw just how much people appreciate the depth and complexity of bitter liqueurs."

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A Journey Through 70 Distilleries Across Europe

Motonaga had long dreamed of crafting his own spirits. In early 2019, he set out on a journey across Europe, visiting over 70 distilleries to learn from the best. One of the most memorable stops was in Pontarlier, France, and Val-de-Travers, Switzerland, both renowned for absinthe production. The experience was invaluable. Amidst breathtaking landscapes and a deep-rooted local culture, he discovered a way of spirit-making that was more natural and meticulous than anything he had seen before.

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"In this small village, I met an elderly woman who had been making absinthe and herbal liqueurs using traditional methods"

he recalls. 

"There was something so pure and raw about her work. It made me wonder, could I do this too?"

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By 2020, he had found the perfect location, a 100-year-old farmhouse near Lake Sagami in Kanagawa, Japan. The property had once been an inn called "Iseya" and he decided to carry on the name. That summer, he moved his family from Osaka and threw himself into farming, construction, and countless amaro experiments.

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"For the first two years after starting the company, I was so busy clearing land and building the distillery from scratch that I barely had time for actual spirit-making" he says.

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 "I spent nights working on prototypes in that century-old house. When our first product finally launched, it sold out in a month. Orders kept coming in non-stop. I'll never forget that moment, especially since everyone told me amaro wouldn't sell in Japan."

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The Birth of Japan’s First Amaro

After countless trials and refinements, Motonaga released Japan’s first-ever amaro, Scarlet the First, in November 2021. 

A year later, he followed up with Scarlet Aperitivo, a product that would become the foundation of Iseya Distillery.

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His journey from bartender to pioneering distiller is a testament to passion, persistence, and a belief that even in Japan, there is a place for amaro.

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Motonaga shares his thoughts on Scarlet Aperitivo,

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"Our ‘Aperitivo’ is perfect for any serve, whether it’s a Negroni, Americano, or something entirely new. The barrel-aged version, like our ‘Cask Marriage’ series, pairs beautifully with cigars and offers bartenders the opportunity to craft even more complex cocktails."

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Designed with versatility in mind, Scarlet Aperitivo is a bartender’s best friend. Its well-balanced profile allows for creative cocktail interpretations. For those who prefer a richer depth, there’s also an aged version, matured for two years in Japanese whisky casks. These casks come from legendary distilleries such as Ichiro’s Malt, Kanosuke, Sakurao (peated), Kuroki Honten, Saburoumaru, and Sasanokawa, each adding its own subtle characteristics to the final blend.

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Today, the Scarlet lineup has expanded to 14 variations, including limited seasonal releases like Verde Amaro and Menta Amaro, as well as aged versions such as the Scarlet Cask Marriage series. Special editions like Café and Radice further showcase Japan’s rich botanical diversity.

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Scarlet Starts in the Fields

Motonaga grows a variety of herbs and botanicals across three fields near his distillery. While Scarlet stays true to the essence of traditional amaro, it also incorporates Japanese ingredients and techniques.

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"We work with medicinal herbs, some of which we grow from seeds imported from Europe, all without the use of pesticides. People often assume that 'natural farming' means letting plants grow wild, but in reality, it requires constant care and attention."

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From spring to fall, he spends most of his time in the fields, often feeling more like a farmer than a distiller. Scarlet amaro itself is crafted from a blend of 25 botanicals, including orange peel, jasmine, wormwood, marjoram, and hops. His approach is deeply rooted in history, studying 19th-century amaro recipes while staying faithful to the drink's global traditions.

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"I'm especially particular about the fresh herbs we grow ourselves, like wormwood, lemon balm, chicory, fennel, and hyssop. We also utilize local mulberry trees that have been here for decades and even horsetail, a plant often dismissed as a weed, to create something truly unique."

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"Amaro has always been made using plants from all over the world. If we were to use only Japanese ingredients, it wouldn’t be a real amaro. The challenge is to preserve tradition while adding a distinctly Japanese touch."

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When asked how Scarlet differs from traditional Italian amaro, he explains,

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"Japanese regulations on medicinal products affect which botanicals we can use. For example, gentian, commonly used in Italy, is not allowed here. So, we grow and experiment with native Japanese plants and substitutes. We also use beet sugar from Hokkaido and Okinawan black sugar, which add a natural depth and umami to the sweetness. Another key characteristic of Scarlet is its use of fresh herbs.

As a bartender, I was deeply influenced by traditional Italian amaro. With that respect in mind, I’m always striving to recreate the flavors of amaro from the 1940s and '50s."

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The Most Important Aspect of Making Scarlet

From cultivating and harvesting botanicals to maceration, distillation, aging, bottling, and labeling, every step of the process is done by hand, personally overseen by Motonaga and his family. Scarlet is truly handcrafted from start to finish.

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"What we value most in making amaro is ensuring that it feels human-made. We want the unique character of each botanical to come through in the final product, which is why we cultivate the plants ourselves. Our philosophy is to create something with lasting value, something that can continue for the next hundred years. To share this vision, we produce hands-on, experiential releases twice a year, inviting volunteers to take part in the process."

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"The most rewarding moments come when people discover the beauty of herbal liqueurs through Scarlet. There's also a deep satisfaction in seeing our trial-and-error approach, designing, producing, and selling everything ourselves, resonate with people."

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"Going forward, I want to connect directly with farmers across Japan, listen to their stories, and source ingredients that reflect Japan’s identity. Many farmers grow incredible produce, yet struggle due to low prices or limited market opportunities.

Recently, we received an SOS from farmers on Hachijō Island asking us to develop a product using Ashitaba. We’re now working on an amaro featuring this local herb. The goal is to help turn it into a regional specialty and contribute to the island’s promotion.

Beyond that, we’re also exploring new vermouth projects."

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*Ashitaba A nutrient-packed green leafy vegetable native to Japan, mainly grown in the Izu Islands and Hachijo Island. Often called a “Japanese superfood” it’s rich in vitamins and minerals, similar to kale or spinach, but with a slight bitterness. It’s commonly used in cooking and tea and is known for its potential health benefits.

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Why Scarlet Is Gaining Popularity in Japan and the U.S.

"In Japan, the growing number of tourists has led to an increased demand for amaro-based cocktails. People also resonate with our way of life, one that’s deeply rooted in farming, and appreciate the diversity of our products. In the U.S., there’s already a strong appreciation for Japanese whisky and a general openness to new things, which has helped us gain traction. Plus, with cocktail culture evolving rapidly, more producers are making amaro, creating a favorable environment for us."

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"Top bars in Japan and across Asia have told us that Scarlet has a depth of flavor unlike traditional amaro, which is incredibly gratifying to hear.

In Japan, many customers enjoy it with soda, just like I originally served it. That’s why we’ve focused on making sure Scarlet’s bold botanical profile holds up even when mixed, maintaining its structure and complexity. I think that’s something people really connect with.

And at 3,500 yen, it’s not overly expensive, which customers seem to appreciate too"

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A Message to Italian Bartenders and Cocktail Enthusiasts

"I have the utmost respect for Italian amaro and its culture. In fact, I truly love Italy.

That’s why introducing Scarlet to Italian bartenders is so important to me. Once they get to know our amaro and the philosophy behind it, I believe they’ll connect with it naturally. Italy is a place I make a point to visit at least once a year, and I hope to deepen that connection over time."

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"Amaro is a blend of roots, herbs, and botanicals, just like a carefully crafted cocktail or a dish made by a skilled chef. It’s a process that bartenders and culinary professionals naturally excel at.

I’ve been shaped by the influence of many bartenders, cultures, and landscapes from around the world. To have Scarlet embraced in Italy, the very heart of amaro, would be the greatest honor. Grazie mille!!"

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Through Scarlet, Motonaga has taken the deeply rooted traditions of amaro and infused them with a fresh perspective. Where will this Japanese amaro go next? We can’t wait to find out.

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